CHANEL, GABRIELLE (COCO)

(1883-1971)

   Born in Samur, France, Chanel began her career as a milliner in 1910 and then, in 1913, showed her first clothing collection. Coco Chanel shared the limelight as a gifted couturière with contemporaries of her time such as Madeleine Vionnet, Cristobal Balenciaga, and Paul Poiret. Chanel, however, did stand alone in her ability to combine masculine and feminine design elements in her creation of comfortable, simple, and beautifully crafted clothing. She made pants and pajamas fashionable and gave them credibility as wardrobe pieces worthy of expense. A shrewd businesswoman, Chanel negotiated an agreement with Hollywood producer Samuel Goldwyn in 1931 to clothe his movie stars.It was for the sum of $1 million, notable during the time of the Great Depression. Chanel not only clinched a brilliant financial deal but also assured herself international acclaim.

   Best known for her "little black dress" and the acceptance of costume jewelry in the world of couture, Chanel is also credited with presenting the world a unique perfume in 1921, her own Chanel \#5. The perfume's sleek and masculine bottle style, combined with its natural and nonflowery scent, was yet another venue for Chanel to present to the world her female lifestyle philosophy—that women could be strong and feminine and thus free to pursue their individual dreams. It was during her comeback in 1954 that her famous "tweed suit" was born, which lives on into the twenty-first century. While it has had numerous variations, its core is intact and breathes Coco's philosophy of design.

   The Chanel collection has been designed by Karl Lagerfeld since 1983. He appears to have a true understanding of the woman behind the name. His Chanel designs continue to offer clothes that allow women to grow into their own person as equals in a man's world. He invigorated the double C logo in the 1980s and paid homage to the great "Mademoiselle" by developing Coco's look in the most unconventional ways, truly bringing it full circle. The Chanel women of the twenty-first century are all about class. The brand is as sought after by the ladies who shop couture as it is by the teenagers who shop street vendors. Her costume jewelry of the past has inspired the jewelry of today. It is fun yet classic and works with jeans as well as suits. Chanel remains a privately owned company that produces fashion, cosmetics, jewelry, and watches. It has a single license for its eyewear. In 2005, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York paid homage to the great Chanel in its exhibit Chanel.

   See also Brand identity; Brand image; Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art; Haute Couture.